Zoom into the past into an area of the industrial revolution. A hard working class world as described by Dickens in “Oliver Twist”. A pauperized but also romantic spirit, mixing masculine work clothes style with a more feminine style. To be translated in a more contemporary manner for a sober, androgynous, but also sensual and poetic style.
MEN & WOMEN Fabrics Importance of winter cotton, with tarpaulin fabrics, denims and corduroys. An already worn aspect, washed and softened for carded wools. Blurred patterns or mini graphic patterns for combed wools. Grandpa-peasant stripes, handkerchief or workers check. Cottons inspired by household linen, poplins, piques, little damasks, flounced cottons. Importance of contrasting details and trims to feminize the masculine fabrics, adding a touch of romanticism.
WOMEN Colours a range of neutrals either brightened or softened by filtered shades. For outerwear and bottoms warm garnet, a uniform blue and a sober stone-grey. For tops, greyed pastels as cyclamen pink, oak and moss.
Silhouettes full dress with a play of tucks and topstitching. Drawstrings at high and low waist. Work coat jacket with fitted volumes around the shoulders then slightly flared. Patch pockets and rounded collars. Worn with slim short trousers.
Focus uniform spirit, shapely, above the waist belted with officer collar and maxi removable fur collar. Masculine trousers, short bermuda, puffing bloomers or very slim and just up to the ankle. Grandpa shirts, with plastron or detail of long fine button placket. In light striped poplin or with discreet checks, often adorned with lace ribbons.
Accessories feminized Cossack or urchin like caps. High laced boot with high heel. Turn-of-the-century boot with braid lacings. Focus on cabled knit boot cuffs. Saddle multi-pocketed bag in quilted leather. Like an old-fashioned doctor’s bag for new, easy shapes.
MEN Colours somber greyed, greenish neutrals and boiler room blues. For outerwear and bottoms, coal fake black, stoker blue, peat brown.For tops, greyed air force blue, cyclamen, quince.
Silhouettes gang look, double-breasted 4 buttons vest worn on a collarless grandpa shirt and a wider pants. British allure, a whipcord herringbones trench worn with a wool cap.
Focus suiting type cottons play in herringbone version on double-breasted jacket Maxi long overcoat with contrast pockets and cuffs Elbow patches and stripe shirts Clothes worn inside out big gauge pullover
Accessories worker bag in tanned leather. Saddle bag in suiting fabric. Retro British leather shoes. Tie boots and tweed caps.
Published by CIFF
Federation of Danish Textile & Clothing / Trends Nelly Rodi |
Trends
